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Francesca Amfitheatrof

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Francesca Amfitheatrof
Born
Tokyo, Japan
NationalityAmerican
EducationB.A., M.A.
Alma materChelsea College of Arts, Central St. Martin, Royal College of Arts
OccupationJewellery designer
Years active1993
Board member ofPresident - US Board of Sarabande, President - Alexander McQueen Foundation, London, member - Us Board of Royal College of Arts, London
SpouseBen Curwin

Francesca Amfitheatrof is an American jewelry designer. She is the artistic director for watches and jewelry at Louis Vuitton.[1] Before that, she was the design director at Tiffany & Co.[2]

Early life

[edit]

Francesca Amfitheatrof was born in Tokyo, Japan in 1968.[3] She is the daughter of a Russian-American father, the bureau chief of Time , and an Italian mother, a fashion publicist for Valentino and Giorgio Armani. Amfitheatrof attended Cobham Hall School, a boarding school in England, while her parents lived in Moscow in the 1980s,[4] but spent her childhood in New York, Moscow, Tokyo, and Rome. She has a sister.[5]

She began her studies with a foundation course at Chelsea College of Arts, followed by a bachelor's degree at London's Central St. Martins and an MA at the Royal College of Art in 1993.[6][7] In the same year, her first silverware collection was presented by Jay Jopling of the White Cube gallery in London.[8]

At the Royal College of Art,[8] Amfitheatrof met and worked with Giovanni Corvaja, who taught and mentored her to create unique alloys, like blue or elastic gold.[4]

After the Royal College of Art, she went to Padua, in northern Italy, to become an apprentice for Paulo Maurizi, who had previously worked with Corvaja.

As part of her school program at the Royal College of Art, Amfitheatrof was selected by Alberto Alessi from the Italian housewares and kitchen utensils company Alessi, to come to Milan and work with his company.[9]

Career

[edit]

Design

[edit]

After her studies, she came back to London and launched her collection with a show presented by Jay Jopling of White Cube Gallery. The show consisted of sterling silver necklaces, gold rings and sterling silver vases.

She started selling jewelry through luxury fashion stores worldwide, such as Colette Paris, Maxfield LA, Browns London, Selfridges London, Luisa Via Roma Florence, Jeffreys New York, Joyce Hong Kong, etc.

In 1995, Amfitheatrof started consulting for fashion brands on designing jewelry and accessories. She worked with brands like Rifat Ozbek, Balenciaga, Alice Temperley, Chanel, Fendi ,and Marni.[10] For Marni, she launched their first eyewear collection and consulted for their accessories, including shoes and bags. For Chanel, Amfitheatrof designed all the hardware for bags, shoes, belts, and a line of silver jewelry.

Amfitheatrof has worked for the British jeweler Asprey & Garrard.[4]

During her time as the consultant creative director at Wedgwood in 2008, Amfitheatrof created many new tabletop and glassware collections,including their archival tea collection, which is still one of the best-selling gift items.[11][dead link‍]

Following the death of Attilio Codognato in 2023, Amfitheatrof took over creative control of the jewelry company Casa Codognato while maintaining her role as artistic director of jewelry at Louis Vuitton.[12]

Art

[edit]

In 2001 she set up RS&A, a London-based contemporary artist agency with Mark Sanders and Julia Royse.[13]

From 2010 to 2013, Amfitheatrof was the head curator of the Gucci Museo in Florence and curated exhibitions globally.[4]

In 2010, Amfitheatrof organized and curated the Damien Hirst exhibition "Cornucopia" at the Musée Océanographique in Monaco.[14]

The following year, Amfitheatrof curated and selected 23 works from the Francois Pinault Collection of Contemporary Art exhibited for the first time in Asia in a show entitled Agony and Ecstasy. This was presented at SongEun ArtSpace in Seoul, Korea.[15] The exhibition was then followed by the first solo exhibition in Asia of the Chapman brothers in 2013, entitled The Sleep of Reason. It consisted of their contemporary works over the past two decades, which were then presented again at SongEun ArtSpace in Seoul.[16]

In 2010, Amfitheatrof opened the Gucci Museo in Florence as Head Curator, featuring the video art titled "Amore e Morte" (2011) of American artist Bill Viola; followed by British artist Paul Fryer[17]'s "Lo Spirito Vola" (2012); then Cindy Sherman's "Early Works" (2013) exhibition, that included the photographic series "Bus Riders" and "Murder Mystery", and a short film "Dollhouse".[18]

The last show Amfitheatrof curated was the 2013 solo exhibition of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos: Red Independent Heart (2010), Psycho (2010), Lavoisier (2011), and Hand Made (2008). All the works exhibited at the Gucci Museo were loaned by the Francois Pinault Collection.[19]

Tiffany & Co.

[edit]

After five years of searching for a design director, Tiffany & Co. appointed Amfitheatrof.[20] She became the first-ever female design director in 2014.[5] Her first collection, Tiffany T, was launched exactly a year after her arrival. She designed a range of minimalist necklaces, cuffs, and rings meant for layering and daily wear, and also created the advertising campaign, which was shot by Craig McDean, styled by Karl Templer and featured Freja Beha Erichsen.[21][22] This was followed by the collections "Victoria Bows & Infinity" (2015), "Return to Love" (2016), "1837" (2017), "Collectibles" (2017), "Sweet Nothings" (2017).

During her three and a half years as the head design director, she approved the repositioning of the Haute Joaillerie for the Tiffany Blue Book Collection, that comprised 250 unique pieces.[23] The collections were titled "The Art of the Sea" (2015),[24] and "The Art of Transformation" (2016), and "The Art of the Wild" (2017).[25][26] Amfitheatrof elevated Tiffany & Co.'s position in Haute Joaillerie. Amfitheatrof's Tiffany pieces were also recognized on the red carpet for award season. Cate Blanchett's turquoise beaded necklace for the 87th Academy Awards and diamond drop earrings for the 88th Academy Awards were highly publicized.[27] In the 89th Academy Awards, both Emma Stone and Jessica Biel wore Amfitheatrof's "Whispers of the Rainforest" jewelry. Reese Witherspoon and Jennifer Garner are fans of Amfitheatrof's Tiffany designs as well.[28][29]


Amfitheatrof created a partnership between Tiffany & Co. and Dover Street Market.[30] This collection, named "Out of Retirement" (2015) marks the first time Dover Street Market launched and supported a project of this magnitude across all their locations and markets.[5]

The "Out of Retirement" collection was inspired by the Tiffany archives. Amfitheatrof also designed the three installations in each Dover Street Market location, inspired by Gene Moore.[31]

Amfitheatrof was responsible for all of Tiffany's categories. These included small leather goods and watches. She launched the Half-moon SLG Collection with wave-embossed leather and gold-plated solid brass hardware. Amfitheatrof is also responsible for the design of the East-West Automatic watch collection, featuring a dial turned 90 degrees.[32]

In May 2017, she worked on the Gold, Silver, and Leather Tiffany HardWear Jewelry Collection. This collection features Lady Gaga in the advertising campaign.[33]

Pauer

[edit]

In March 2019, Amfitheatrof launched her line originally under the name Thief & Heist and then rebranded in 2022 to Pauer, a new drop-driven, direct-to-consumer collection.[20] In it, she brought back the tag bracelet launched in the late 1990s and amassed a large following. Twenty years later, she reintroduced it again in a collaboration with Seventeen, a South Korean band. The tag is made using partly reground nylon and recycled silver. She also launched the Codebreaker Collection, a modern take on the charms and ID. Using a patent pending mechanism to customize letters, symbols and studs in sterling silver under the banner The Metal is the Message, customers can customize and personalize their pieces using universal charms called Brix to create and design their pieces. The collection is made using 100% recycled silver and packaging made of ground pulp. [34]

Louis Vuitton

[edit]

Amfitheatrof became the artistic director of jewelry and watches at Louis Vuitton in April 2018.[35]

Her first Louis Vuitton Fine Jewelry Collection, B Blossom, debuted in late 2018, featuring a reinterpretation of the Monogram Flower, created by Georges Vuitton in 1896. [36]

In July 2019, she designed the Riders of the Knights High Jewelry Collection, inspired by medieval heroines.[37]

The LV Volt Fine Jewelry Collection was introduced in 2020,[38] followed by Francesca Amfitheatrof's second Louis Vuitton High Jewelry Collection, Stellar Times. [39]

In July 2021, she celebrated the 200th anniversary of the birth of Louis Vuitton with the Bravery High Jewelry Collection — 90 pieces that retrace the destiny of Louis Vuitton.[40]

In July 2022 the Louis Vuitton Spirit High Jewelry Collection was launched, inspired by mythological creatures.[41]

Louis Vuitton Deep Time, her fifth High Jewelry Collection, was launched in July 2023. 170 pieces were unveiled, spanning the birth of the planet to the creation of life.[42]

In August 2023, she expanded the Blossom Fine Jewelry Collection by introducing Ombre Blossom. The collection reinterprets the outline of the Maison's Monogram star-shaped Flower. [43]

At the 77th British Academy Film Awards in 2024, Cate Blanchett wore a customed necklace designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof — incorporating repurposed pearls from Blanchett's 2023 BAFTA appearance, along with stones and materials from five archival pieces. [44]

Amfitheatrof's sixth High Jewelry Collection for Louis Vuitton, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, debuted in June 2024. Comprising 220 pieces, it is her largest collection for the Maison to date.[45]

Louis Vuitton and Amfitheatrof unveiled Le Damier de Louis Vuitton Fine Jewelry Collection in October 2024, celebrating the Damier motif  — a repeated pattern created in 1888 by Louis and Georges Vuitton, designed to set the Maison apart. [46]

On November 5, 2024, Francesca Amfitheatrof was named “Designer of the Year” at the UK Harper's Bazaar Women of the Year Awards, becoming the first jewelry designer to receive this honor.[47]

Personal life

[edit]

Amfitheatrof married Ben Curwin in Kensington in 2004.[48] They have two children.

References

[edit]
  1. ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Louis Vuitton names Francesca Amfitheatrof jewelry and watches artistic director". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved July 23, 2024.
  2. ^ Jordan, Eliza (January 4, 2016). "Francesca Amfitheatrof: Design Director of Tiffany & Co". Whitewall. Retrieved December 22, 2023.
  3. ^ Trebay, Guy (April 15, 2015). "At Tiffany, Something New Inside the Blue Box". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved July 23, 2024.
  4. ^ a b c d Finnigan, Kate (May 15, 2019). "'I want to see it, I want to touch it': the new alchemist at Louis Vuitton". Financial Times. Retrieved January 9, 2020.
  5. ^ a b c Hartman, Eviana (August 19, 2014). "Brunch at Tiffany's". T. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  6. ^ "Francesca Amfitheatrof". NUVO. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  7. ^ Perry, Gemma (October 3, 2024). "Louis Vuitton's Francesca Amfitheatrof is Making Women Sparkle". marie claire. Retrieved October 22, 2024.
  8. ^ a b Singh, Prachi (April 17, 2018). "Francesca Amfitheatrof to join Louis Vuitton as Artistic Director". fashionunited.uk. Retrieved January 9, 2020.
  9. ^ Lutyens, Dominic (March 11, 2001). "Alessi is more". The Observer. ISSN 0029-7712. Retrieved July 23, 2024.
  10. ^ "Francesca Amfitheatrof". NUVO. Retrieved January 9, 2020.
  11. ^ "Francesca Amfitheatrof". Financial Times. January 5, 2008. ISSN 0307-1766. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  12. ^ Feitelberg, Rosemary (November 13, 2023). "Venice Jeweler Attilio Codognato Dies at 86". WWD. Retrieved July 1, 2024.
  13. ^ "T is For Tiffany: Francesca Amfitheatrof, Design Director of Tiffany & Co". Elite Traveler. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  14. ^ "A night at the Museum - Vogue.it" (in Italian). Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  15. ^ Villarreal, Ignacio. "Selected works from the François Pinault Collection on view at SongEun ArtSpace". artdaily.com. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  16. ^ Cube, White. "Jake & Dinos Chapman at Song Eun ArtSpace, korea | White Cube". whitecube.com. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  17. ^ "Biography – Paul Fryer". Retrieved March 12, 2023.
  18. ^ "Modern art light shines at Gucci museum in Florence". The National. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  19. ^ "Joana Vasconcelos at Gucci Museo | My Art Guides". myartguides.com. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  20. ^ a b "Louis Vuitton's Jewellery Designer Is Launching Her Own Line". The Business of Fashion. February 9, 2019. Retrieved January 9, 2020.
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  22. ^ "The Real Model T". Town & Country. September 1, 2014. Retrieved April 26, 2017.
  23. ^ "Meet Tiffany's First Ever Female Design Director". Elle. August 26, 2014. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  24. ^ Trebay, Guy (April 15, 2015). "At Tiffany, Something New Inside the Blue Box". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  25. ^ Robinson, Roxanne (January 27, 2017). "Francesca Amfitheatrof's Swan Song for Tiffany Blue Book Collection". WWD. Retrieved April 26, 2017.
  26. ^ Robinson, Roxanne (January 27, 2017). "Francesca Amfitheatrof's swan song for Tiffany Blue Book collection". Los Angeles Times. ISSN 0458-3035. Retrieved April 26, 2017.
  27. ^ Trebay, Guy (April 15, 2015). "At Tiffany, Something New Inside the Blue Box". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  28. ^ "See Reese Witherspoon & More Stars in $2.4 Million of Tiffany Jewelry". E! Online. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  29. ^ Silberman, Lindsay (April 20, 2016). "The Stars Shined at Tiffany & Co. Blue Book Gala". The Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved April 26, 2017.
  30. ^ Holt, Bethan (December 12, 2015). "Francesca Amfitheatrof: the woman bringing a modern touch to Tiffany & Co". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved October 22, 2024.
  31. ^ "Tiffany delves into the archive for Dover Street Market". The Telegraph. Archived from the original on November 24, 2015. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  32. ^ "Introducing The Tiffany & Co. East West Driver's Watch (With Original Photos & Pricing)". Watches By SJX. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  33. ^ "See Tiffany's New Lady Gaga-Starring Super Bowl Ad". Racked. February 5, 2017. Retrieved April 24, 2017.
  34. ^ "Francesca Amfitheatrof Questions the Emotion of Jewelry with Thief & Heist". Surface. May 22, 2019. Retrieved January 9, 2020.
  35. ^ WW, FashionNetwork com. "Louis Vuitton names Francesca Amfitheatrof jewelry and watches artistic director". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  36. ^ "Louis Vuitton launches B Blossom in Abu Dhabi - MOJEH". mojeh.com. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  37. ^ "Katerina Perez | Louis Vuitton: Francesca Amfitheatrof debuts with 'Riders of the Knights' collection". Katerina Perez. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  38. ^ Pelet, Connie de (August 14, 2020). "Louis Vuitton launch LV Volt Campaign - The Glass Magazine". theglassmagazine.com. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  39. ^ "Louis Vuitton's Stellar Times High Jewellery Collection Is Inspired By The Galaxy". Harper's Bazaar Singapore. November 3, 2020. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  40. ^ "Katerina Perez | Bravery from Louis Vuitton: An Ode to the Maison's Mysterious Founder". Katerina Perez. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  41. ^ Sanderson, Ben (July 4, 2022). "Louis Vuitton debuts stunning new Spirit High Jewellery collection - The Glass Magazine". theglassmagazine.com. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  42. ^ Chabrol, Marie (January 31, 2024). "Louis Vuitton, a journey to the sources of the world". Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  43. ^ Faurote, Adrienne (August 17, 2023). "Louis Vuitton Blossom Fine Jewelry Officially Launches". Haute Living. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  44. ^ Pougin, Eléna (May 20, 2024). "Festival de Cannes 2024 : Cate Blanchett fait sensation sur le tapis rouge avec une spectaculaire création de haute joaillerie Louis Vuitton". Vogue France (in French). Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  45. ^ "Louis Vuitton unveils Awakened Hands Awakened Minds". www.thejewelleryeditor.com. August 7, 2024. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  46. ^ Fetto, Funmi (September 20, 2024). "Le Damier de Louis Vuitton transforms the check into fine jewellery". Vogue Singapore. Retrieved November 5, 2024.
  47. ^ "Women of the Year Awards 2024: the winners portfolio". Harper's BAZAAR. November 5, 2024. Retrieved November 6, 2024.
  48. ^ "Francesca Amfitheatrof" in England & Wales, Civil Registration Marriage Index, 1916-2005, ancestry.com, accessed October 26, 2021 (subscription required)
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