South Asian pickle

South Asian pickle
	Chilli pickle in India
Alternative names	Achar, khatai, pacchadi, loncha, oorugai, avakaai
Type	Pickle
Course	Condiment
Place of origin	India, Bangladesh, Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar
Region or state	Indian Subcontinent
Main ingredients	Fruit (mango, plums), vegetables, or meat
Ingredients generally used	Oil, chili powder, spices, mustard seeds, fennel seeds
Variations	Acar, atchara
	Media: South Asian pickle;

South Asian pickle is a pickled food made from a variety of vegetables, meats and fruits preserved in brine, vinegar, edible oils, and various South Asian spices. The pickles are popular across South Asia, with many regional variants, natively known as lonache, avalehikā, uppinakaayi, khatai, pachadi or noncha, achaar (sometimes spelled aachaar, atchar or achar), athāṇu or athāṇo or athāna, khaṭāī or khaṭāin, sandhan or sendhan or sāṇdhāṇo, kasundi, or urugaai.

Etymology

Terms used for pickles in South Asia vary regionally. They are known as ūrugāi in Tamil, pachchadi, avakaya, achaar, tokku, or ūragāya in Telugu, uppinakaayi in Kannada, uppillittuthu in Malayalam, loncha in Marathi, lonchem in Konkani, athāṇu in Gujarati, athāṇo in Rajasthani and Braj, sendhān or sandhān in Awadhi,^[1] Bagheli^[2] and Bhojpuri,^[3]khaṭāiṇ or sāndhaṇo in Sindhi,^[4] kasundi in Bangla and Odia.^[5] In Hindi, native words for pickle which are rooted in Sanskrit include athāna, noncha, sendhān, and khaṭaī. Another term, achaar, is also used in Hindi, Nepali, Urdu, and Bengali.^[6] Early Sanskrit and Tamil literature uses the terms Avalehika, Upadamzam, Sandhita, and Avaleha for pickles.^[7]

In Hindustani, an additional word, āchār (अचार or आचार), is used for pickles, along with other native Hindi words. Āchār is a loanword of Persian origin, entered popular use as the Hindustani term for pickles under Islamic rule. However, pickles in India are totally different from vinegar-based pickles in the Middle East.^[8] In Persian, the word āchār is defined as "powdered or salted meats, pickles, or fruits, preserved in salt, vinegar, honey, or syrup".^[9]

History

Early pickle recipes in Ayurvedic and Sangam period texts mention several varieties of pickles, including the earliest known mention of mango pickles.^[7] Nalachampu, a Sanskrit epic written by Trivikrama Bhatta in 915 CE, describes pickles made from green mango, green peppercorns, long pepper, raw cardamom, lemon, lime, myrobalan, hog plum, stone apple, and fragrant manjack.^[10] Early medieval cookbooks such as Lokopakara (1025 CE), Manasollasa (1130 CE), Pakadarpana (1200 CE), and Soopa Shastra (1508 CE), Kshemakutuhala (1549 CE) mentions pickle recipes that use green mango, green peppercorns, longpepper, lemons and limes, turmeric root, mango-ginger root, ginger, radish, bitter gourd, cucumber, lotus root, and bamboo shoots. The religious text Lingapurana by Gurulinga Desika (1594 CE) mentions more than fifty kinds of pickles.^[11] Unique pickles made from edible flowers are also mentioned in the Ni'matnama (1500 CE) cookbook.^[12]

Chili peppers were introduced to South Asia by Portuguese traders in ports controlled by the Mughal Empire on the western coast of Gujarat. It is unclear when red chili peppers came to be used in pickles as they are today, since medieval texts do not mention their use in pickles.^[7] Before the introduction of chili peppers by the Portuguese, black pepper, long pepper, and Piper chaba (in both fresh and dried forms) were the main source of heat in ancient and medieval pickles.

Ingredients

Indian mixed pickle, containing lotus root, lemon, carrot, green mango, green chilis, and other ingredients

Achar gosht, a meat curry cooked with flavors borrowed and amalgamated from pickle

In India, there are two main types of pickles: pickles made with sesame or mustard oil, and pickles made without oil. Pickles without oil use salt to draw out the moisture from green mangoes or lemons to create a brine. A mixture of lemon or lime juice with salt or traditional ganne ka sirka (sugarcane vinegar) may also be used as brine.^[8] In some pickles from Gujarat and Rajasthan, jaggery is used as the main preserve.

Homemade pickles are prepared in the summer. They are matured through exposure to sunlight for up to two weeks.^[13] The pickle is traditionally covered with muslin while it is maturing.^[14] Chili peppers are the decisive ingredient in South Asian pickles,^[15] though other ingredients vary by region within the Indian subcontinent. Some commonly used ingredients are limes, lemons, mangoes, ginger, and eggplants.

Regional variations

Bangladesh

In Bengali culture, pickles are known as Achar (Bengali: আচার) or Asar (Bengali: আসার). Bengali pickles are an integral part of Bengali cuisine, adding a burst of flavors to meals. These pickles are made by preserving various fruits, vegetables, and even fish or meat in a mixture of spices, oil, and vinegar or lemon juice, which is why pickles of Bangladesh taste different. The tradition of making pickles in Bangladesh dates back centuries, with each region having its own unique recipes and techniques. The process involves marinating the chosen ingredient with a blend of spices such as mustard seeds, fenugreek, nigella seeds, and chili powder. The pickles are then left to mature in airtight jars, allowing the flavors to develop over time. ^[16]

Bengali pickles are cherished for their tangy, spicy, and sometimes sweet taste profiles. They are often served as accompaniments to rice, bread, or curry dishes, enhancing the overall dining experience. Popular varieties of Bengali pickles include mango pickle, lime pickle, mixed vegetable pickle, and fish pickle. Pickles can be also popular depending on the district such as Shatkora achar of Sylhet and Chui jhal achar of Khulna are famous even outside India and Bangladesh. The art of making pickles is passed down through generations, with families having their secret recipes and methods. Pickles also serve as condiment for rice in Bengal. Bengali pickles are a cherished part of the culinary culture in Bangladesh. They offer a delightful blend of flavors and are an essential accompaniment to Bengali meals. The tradition of making pickles has been preserved for centuries, showcasing the rich heritage and love for food in the region.^[17]

India

Despite using the same main ingredients, differences in preparation techniques and spices have led to wide variation in Indian pickles. A mango pickle from South India tastes very different from one made in North India, as the southern states prefer sesame oil and tend to produce spicier pickles, while the northern states prefer mustard oil.

The city of Panipat in Haryana is well-known as a hub for commercial achaar, and is particularly famous for pachranga (literally "five colors", prepared with five vegetables) and satranga (literally "seven colors", prepared with seven vegetables). Pachranga and satranga achaar are matured in mustard oil and whole spices with ingredients like raw mangoes, chickpeas, lotus stem, karonda, myrobalan, and limes. Pachranga achaar was first created in 1930 by Murli Dhar Dhingra in Kaloorkot, a village in the Mianwali District of what is now Pakistan. Dhingra's descendants brought the pickle to India in 1943. As of 2016, Panipat produced over ₹500 million (equivalent to ₹720 million or US$8.4 million in 2023) worth of achaar every year, supplied to local markets as well as exported to the UK, US, and Middle East.^[18]^[19]^[20]

In South India, most vegetables are sun-dried with spices, taking advantage of the immensely hot and sunny climate in the region. The sun-drying process naturally preserves the vegetables, along with spices such as mustard, fenugreek seeds, chili powder, salt, asafoetida, and turmeric. To speed up the process, vegetables may be cooked before drying.

The states of Telangana and Andhra Pradesh are particularly well-known for their spicy pickles. Unripe mango with garlic and ginger (āvakāya in Telugu) and unripe tamarind with green chilies (cintakāya in Telugu) and red chillies (korivi kāram in Telugu) are a staple with everyday meals. Amla (Indian gooseberry) (usirikāya in Telugu) and lemon (nimmakāya in Telugu) pickles are widely eaten as well.

In the state of Tamil Nadu, the mango pickle māvaḍu is a staple condiment. Māvaḍu is usually made early in the summer season, when mangoes are barely an inch long. The preservation process uses castor oil, giving the pickle a unique taste. Tamil Nadu is also known for the nārttaṅgai, which consists of unripe citrons cut into spirals and stuffed with salt, and for mōr miḷagai, which consists of sun-dried chillies stuffed with salted yogurt.

In the state of Karnataka, the tender whole mango pickle māvina uppinakāyi is made by dehydrating tender whole mangoes with salt. Appemidi or Appimidi is the mango variety which gives distinct taste to the mango pickle made Also pickles made from Gooseberry (Nelikayi), Hogplum (Ametekayi), Lemon (Nimbekayi or Limbekayi) is popular.^[21] Also Udupi cuisine has unique way of making Indian pickles without any use of edible oil.

South Indians living in the coastal areas also pickle fish and meats. In Tamil Nadu, karuvāḍu is made by salting and sun-drying fish. Nettili karuvāḍu, made from anchovies, is among the more popular varieties of karuvāḍu. In Kerala, tuna and sardines are finely chopped, marinated in spices, and cooked on the stove top to make in mīn acār. While fish and shrimp pickles are eaten in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, they are not as popular as lamb and chicken pickles.

Unripe mangoes, lemon, green chilis, gundā (Cordia dichotoma), and kerda are commonly used as key ingredients in Gujarati pickles. Common Gujarati pickles include salted mango pickle made with groundnut oil and spiced with fenugreek seeds and red chili powder; hot and sweet mango pickle made with groundnut oil and jaggery, fennel seeds, dry dates (khārēk), mustard, and red chili powder; and hot and sweet mango pickle made with sugar syrup, cumin, and chili powder.

Myanmar (Burma)

The Burmese word for pickle is thanat (Burmese: သနပ်). Mango pickle (သရက်သီးသနပ်) (thayet thi thanat) is the most prevalent variety. The pickle is made with green, ripe, or dried mangoes cured in vinegar, sugar, salt, chili powder, masala, garlic, fresh chilies, and mustard seeds.^[22]^[23] Mango pickle is commonly used as a condiment alongside curries and biryani in Burmese cuisine.^[24] It is also a mainstay ingredient in a traditional Burmese curry called wet thanat hin (ဝက်သနပ်ဟင်း).^[25]

Nepal

In Nepal, achaar (Nepali: अचार) is commonly eaten with the staple dal-bhat-tarkari as well as momo.^[26] Many achaar factories in Nepal are women-owned or operated by women.^[27]^[28] Nepalese achaar is made with spices such as mustard seeds, timur (Sichuan pepper), cumin powder, coriander powder, turmeric powder, and chili powder. Some of the popular varieties of achar eaten in Nepal are:

Lapsi achaar - Hog plum pickle (can be sweet, savoury, or both)
Khalpi achaar - Ripe cucumber preserved with mustard seed, oil, and spices
Dalle khursani achaar - Nepali round chili pickle
Tama achaar - Fermented bamboo pickle
Gundruk achaar - Fermented mustard leaves pickle
Mula ko achaar - Sun-dried radish and daikon preserved in oil and spices
Karkalo achaar - Pickled stems of Colocasisa
Kinema achaar - Fermented soybean pickle
Buff achaar - Pickled buffalo meat
Chicken achaar - Pickled chicken
Aanp ko achaar - Unripe mango pickle (can be sweet, savoury, or both)
Kagati ko achaar - Lemon pickle
Timur ko chop - Powdered Sichuan pepper with spices
Jhinge machha achaar - Freshwater shrimp pickle
Koiralo ko phool ko achaar (Mountain Ebony, is the edible flowers of the Bauhinia tree)- Instant pickle made by boiling the flower of a tree called 'Koiralo' in Nepali. Tempered and marinated with dry roasted powdered sesame seeds with turmeric powder, fenugreek seeds, chillies in a mustard oil. Garnished with cut green coriander leaves. Ready to eat instantly as an accompaniment to rice, Sel/roti, chyuraa (beaten/flattened rice).
Aalu ko achaar - pickle made from boiled potatoes marinated with dry roasted/powdered sesame seeds,mustard oil,salt,green chillies,lemon or Lapsi/Hog Plum or 'Chook Amilo', small peas known as 'Sano Kerau'. Tempered with turmeric powder, fenugreek seeds, chillies in a mustard oil. Garnished with cut green coriander leaves. Ready to eat instantly as an accompaniment to rice, Sel/roti, chyuraa (beaten/flattened rice).
Dhaniya ko paat ko achaar - Fresh green coriander leaves are blended in a mixer/blender or traditionally in a stone pestle/mortar with salt and chilli or tomatoes can be mixed as desired.Ready to eat instantly as an accompaniment to rice, Sel/roti, chyuraa (beaten/flattened rice).

Pakistan

The Sindh province of modern-day Pakistan is noted for Shikrarpuri achaar and Hyderabadi achaar. Both of these achaar varieties are commonly eaten in Pakistan and abroad.^[29] Shikrarpuri achaar is believed to have originated during the 1600s in medieval India.^[29] The most popular of variety of Shikarpuri achaar is a mixed pickle comprising carrots, turnips, onions, cauliflower, chickpeas, garlic, green chillies, lime, and mango.^[29]

Sri Lanka

Pickles are known as acharu in Sinhala or oorugai in Tamil.^[30]

Africa

In South Africa and Botswana, Indian pickles are called atchar. They are made primarily from unripe mangoes and are sometimes eaten with bread.^[31]^[32]

On Mauritius and the neighboring Réunion a local variation is called Achard de légumes in French or Zasar legim in Kréol. It is commonly prepared by using a mixture of different vegetables like cabbage, carrots, green beans, chayote, palm heart and onions. This is spiced with cumin, turmeric, green chilies, red chilies, ginger, garlic, salt and vinegar. ^[33] Achard de légumes is a very popular condiment that accompanies many meals.

References

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